For pre-fall Tisci has turned to the work of the Italian designer Walter Albini, and his countryman, the architect Gio Ponti for the inspiration behind this collection. It is all about sharp angles, a contrast to Spring's hyper-feminine collection. Even the color palette - white, black, brown, and tan - feel a bit butch. Flat men's shoes accessorized all the looks, further stamping a masculine feel, besides prominently featured geometric patch-working and color-blocking throughout the collection.
What I like the most is Tisci's way of creating his collections with a gusto. He still lingers around the Christianity theme and this time around he plays with the iconography card like Madonna (surely a hit among his cult followers, and inevitably will spawn countless fakes as well). The showroom in fact has a special rack where all the "commercial" pieces are, with star stud shirts and the Madonna-emblazoned piece play an important role further strengthening Tisci's Givenchy in contemporary luxury market.
But there is some serious, well-thought design process going on in the collection. Touches of lace lent a welcome softness. Button-downs were elaborately constructed with mosaic-like arrangement of lace, leather and cotton combo. To me it is the most interesting piece from the whole collection (feels like a beautiful schizophrenic fabric!). Tisci hasn't completely finished with ruffles, just like previous seasons either, and that's good. They added some sensuality to a collection, and again, softness to an otherwise mannish collection.
The accessories arena is filled with potential commercial hits as well - slim rectangular clutches with wooden-effect panels are among the ones that attracted my gaze, as well as Givenchy's already popular polygonal bags with tactile-worthy textures, that will surely sell well with the burgeoning middle class of Asia.
The designs of Gio Ponti
The works of Walter Albini
But there is some serious, well-thought design process going on in the collection. Touches of lace lent a welcome softness. Button-downs were elaborately constructed with mosaic-like arrangement of lace, leather and cotton combo. To me it is the most interesting piece from the whole collection (feels like a beautiful schizophrenic fabric!). Tisci hasn't completely finished with ruffles, just like previous seasons either, and that's good. They added some sensuality to a collection, and again, softness to an otherwise mannish collection.
The accessories arena is filled with potential commercial hits as well - slim rectangular clutches with wooden-effect panels are among the ones that attracted my gaze, as well as Givenchy's already popular polygonal bags with tactile-worthy textures, that will surely sell well with the burgeoning middle class of Asia.
Words and showroom images by Hafidzudin Zainal
Furniture images via talk.arkpad.com.br
Walter Albini works via thefashionspot.com and www.imore.it
Lookbook images via style.com
Furniture images via talk.arkpad.com.br
Walter Albini works via thefashionspot.com and www.imore.it
Lookbook images via style.com
2 comments:
He found a formula and sticks to it. What I cannot stand are his fans - everyone trying to look different end up looking the same with the same Obsedia lanyard, same man-skirt and stud and stars. Someone commented that it was more a display of wealth than style which I thought was quite true. Thankfully I sold off all these generic items.
There is some truth to your comment and I can't agree more. I feel that Givenchy's image is tainted by the big shot celebrities who overexpose the 'hot' runway items. Tisci seems to condone this though. Just check his Instagram :) Although I must say it's a tried and true formula to get widespread publicity.
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